Argentine bachelorette parties & weddings

So, I was lucky enough to already be able to attend an Argentine wedding and bachelorette party (the bachelorette was last weekend and the wedding was last night) since I got here a month ago.  The bride is a coworker/new friend of mine from the States, and the groom is an Argentine.

The bachelorette was pretty much the same as an American one, minus all the penis paraphernalia, veils, sashes, etc. However, in our night out on Arístedes (the main street for restaurants and bars in Mendoza), we were treated to a spectacle that they don’t have in the states: the humiliation of a bachelor at his bachelor party.

This is achieved by putting the lucky bachelor in the back of a pickup truck, stripping him down either naked or putting him in an equally offensive man-thong and driving him down the busiest street in Mendoza at night, honking the horn, playing music, and yelling. I’ve heard that sometimes they stick things in the guy’s um… well… you know. Either way, it’s simultaneously hilarious and appalling.

Weddings here are something else. There’s 2 guestlists: one for the dinner and church and then one for the party, or “casimiento”.  The party STARTS at 11:30pm and often goes till 8am the next day. Unfortunately, I’m lame and only lasted till a little after 3am, but it was fantastic.

Megadegustacion 2011

Ok, so during the Vendimia time they have a wine-tasting festival. It lasts for 3 consecutive days and features bodegas from all around Mendoza and Argentina in general where you can taste it all in one place. It’s called Megadegustación and it. is. awesome.

This year, I hear, was more tame than the years before because we were limited to a certain number of glasses of wine by buying our entrance tickets. Tickets for premium tasting were 60 pesos (divide that by 4 and you have your price in dollars), while the regular tasting was 30 pesos (I think). With that, you got coupons for 5 glasses of wine. Or maybe 4. I don’t remember. It was a good time.  The city shuts down Sarmiento (a major street) for 4 blocks between the Plaza Independencia and Belgrano for this epic shindig.  There’s the wine and they also sell food if you’re hungry (empanadas, etc).

My personal favorite for the evening was the wines from bodega Azul. It was a cab-malbec reserva blend, I think. Soooo good. I also tried reservas from Altos las Hormigas (someone check me on that spelling/name), aand…yeah I’m gonna have to check and see which wines I tasted.

My favorite part of the evening was when my BEAUROCRAT BOYFRIEND approached me and said “Hey, remember me?!”… I said “Yes, of course I do” and he laughed and said “Hey, I’m sorry about today. Cheers!” and toasted me, and walked off.

The city of Mendoza is just a really big town.

My personal saga with Argentine Bureaucracy

Ok, sorry I haven’t posted in a while. Last weekend was a bit of a whirlwind for me, and I’m going to tell you why, in 3 consecutive posts.

The first reason is last Friday was extremely busy for me. Why, you ask? Well, I’ll tell you.

Picture yourself walking from point A (your house) past point C (your office)  to point B (the offices of an extremely bureaucratic country that make the DMV look like a vacation). Got it? Yeah, the point order doesn’t make sense. Whatever. Charlie Sheen wouldn’t care.

Then have the nice, annoyingly goodlooking man who works the desk and hands out ticket numbers at point B tell you that your documentation is wrong, and you need this super special notarized paper in your packet.
I say “No, we have done this 100+ times before, we never needed that. I don’t think we need it. Or if we do, the information should be here in this packet” (which was notarized and certified copies).
He says “No, sorry, you need it.”
After unsuccessfully trying to convince him that I had the right papers, I called my boss/friend’s cell at 8 in the morning to tell her we needed something else. I start walking back to the office (point C) to go search for this magical paper.

The score: Bureaucracy: 1,  Me:0

I get the magical paper I think he is telling me I need. I walk from point C to point B (we are talking 10 blocks or so) – my old friend is at the desk. I approach.
I gingerly hand him my papers, and say, “I think I have them now. Can you check?” . He glances at my feeble attempt to produce the magical paper.
“Nay,” says he.  “You shall not pass go.”
Then he asks me for my passport. The thing I’m there for is for a client – not for me. I try to explain this. He goes “Ohhhhh, I thought it was for you.” Me “No, my name is not (insert man’s name here.)” Him: “Oh I misunderstood. But you still have the wrong document. I’m sorry.”
Me: “Are you SERIOUS? So I’m missing only this one thing? You swear? That’s the ONLY thing I need, everything else is okay? Because I’m walking a LOT today (and I’m fucking tired of your shit).”
Him: Yes yes I am sorry, that is all you need.
Me: I’ll play your game, you rogue. I’ll be back. Again.

Part of that conversation may or may not have been part of an imaginary dramatic reenactment going on in my head on the walk back to Point C.

The Score: Bureaucracy: 2, Me : 0

And so, I walk back to Point C on a mission.  Get back to Point C – people are in the office now. I get backup for what I need. I am told that what I needed (this magical paper) was IN MY PACKET THE ENTIRE TIME.  Hot annoyingly-polite douchebag just didn’t look closely enough. So what do we do? We highlight the damn lines he needs to read. Then I bring reinforcements. 2 of us then parade from Point C to Point B, on a fucking mission.

My colleague is a native Spanish speaker, and ready to raise hell. I’m pretty excited. This time it’s gonna be ON.

My new boyfriend is no longer at the number counter. It’s now the Big Boss Man. Big Boss Man knows my colleague, barely glances at my papers, and gives me a number, no questions asked. HA – you’re going down, Argentine bureaucrats.

However, just before our number is called, we realize a terrible thing. I get a pit in my stomach. I break out in a cold sweat. We didn’t have the forms with us anymore – they were left in our office at point C when I went back the last time. Hijo de puta! I make a game-time decision. It’s time for me to get my ass back to Point C and get those goddamn papers. I’m NOT doing this again on Monday.

The Score: Bureaucracy: 3, Me: 0

I go into my “This is what I would do if I was on the goddamn Amazing Race” mode. It’s 10 blocks. I’m not a runner. I’m also in business casual attire. It’s time to get a taxi.

Little did I know that all the one-way streets in this city, plus midday traffic and rabid Mendocino shoppers would turn my 10-block trip from a fairly easy endeavor into a “Sorry, you’re the last team to arrive” situation.

The driver didn’t even want to drive me. I had to convince him that I had to get there fast, so he had to take me. Into the cab I went. We circled 6 blocks out of the way. We stopped for bitches with strollers, several old people hobbled in front of our car, and I started wishing he would just take out a bike or two. 10 minutes later, which felt like an eternity, we arrive at Point C. I am 10 pesos poorer, and running out of time.

I run in, get the forms, and run out. Realize I look like an idiot half jogging down the street and settle on a powerwalk. I call my colleague at the offices – she says we’re fine. Finally, I arrive back at point B, sweaty and panting, yet triumphant.

I brandish my magic paper. It’s TOTALLY on now, bitches.  We spend approximately 3 minutes at the window. I get my stamp and ID #. It’s over. It is now 12:30pm. I began this journey at 7:45am.

The final score: Bureaucracy: 3, Me: One happy gringa.

Weinert Bodega in Lujan (Mendoza)

This past weekend I paid a visit to the Weinert bodega (vineyard + premises) in Lujan, an area south of the center of the city.

The winery is family-owned, and we were treated to an amazing Brazilian meal consisting of feijoala (sp?) and bobó do pesce (another spellcheck, please) courtesy of our chef friends and son of the winery owner. This was in preparation for next week’s Brazilian Carnival expat luncheon to be held on the premises on Saturday.

We drank the 2005 Malbec (one of my favorites so far of the Malbecs I’ve had), the Merlot (didn’t catch the year), the Cabernet Sauvignon, and then came my unlikely favorite (with dessert in the form of traditional Brazilian ‘brigaderos’):

The Cosecha de Otoño Sauvignon Blanc

Okay, this wine is fantastic. And no, I have nothing to gain financially from giving it a gold star. It’s sweet, but not too sweet; it still tastes like wine. It’s not overpowering, but it goes well with chocolate and cream. It’s the kind of wine you wish you could finish your dinner with when you aren’t in the mood for a super-sweet port, or a bitter digestif like Fernet.  Not syrupy at all, it has a light texture and is (maybe too) easy to drink.  It’s just perfect. I want more!  It’s slightly more expensive than other bottles Weinert produces given the fact that it’s harvested so late, it’s basically made from raisins. But it’s worth the money. Trust me.

My new friend informed me that they sell in the US, and particularly in Texas, so keep an eye out.

Brief restaurant review (Anna Bistro) and an Argentina obsession

I just had the most delicious salad EVAR at this restaurant slash cafe really close to where I live called Anna Bistro. It’s called the Italian …(something something). It had 2 types of prosciutto, shaved parmesan cheese, golden raisins, kiwis, plums, mangoes, nuts, arugula, mixed greens, cracked pepper, croutons, and sundried tomatoes. I’m full.

Some food-porn available here.

The place itself is super cool and they have English menus, in addition to the usual Spanish. My server spoke English to me (yayyy) but I tried my best to respond in Spanish and use my newly-acquired ordering skills. Continue reading

Will you be my Valentine Asador?

Started this week off right with a Valentine’s day asado after work. However, this was after my “novio”(BF) sent me a ton of pink lilies to my office. Turns out, he was able to order them online, without speaking Spanish, and have them delivered in Mendoza. I was über impressed. 

The funny part is one of our CEO’s came in to tell me on Tuesday (the day after V-day, for those of you following) that my flowers had made me the subject of some hot gossip; How does the girl who’s been in the country for a little over a week get flowers for Valentine’s Day already? She must work fast!

I’m still impressed with my novio. Good boy.

The asado was fantastic, and I got to meet new people – a couple who were also expats. And it helps that the other guests at a party are chefs, because dang, the guy can make a MEAN steak.  We drank 5 bottles of wine between 3 people and it was an amazing night.

You may have noticed or became jealous of my usage and correct spelling of über earlier. I’m pretty impressed with myself that I’ve learned the international keyboard setting on my Mac actually has a function. Now I can write emails with to all the “Señors”, asking for the “sustitución”, and when they say “sí “, I can reply “Está bien”. Or something. Very exciting.