My first Asado, first Mate, and more…

So I got to go to my first asado this past weekend. I think it’s my Lonely Planet: Argentina book that says you would be lucky to be invited to an asado when you are here, and they were right. We spent the day relaxing by the pool and eating amazing meat and fresh vegetables while looking at the mountains and riverbed below.  This was all courtesy of my awesome roommates, who in addition to having a place in the city, have a cabin in the countryside about an hour outside the city. It was so idyllic and was just perfect after being overwhelmed by being in a new place with such a foreign feel.

Mate (mah-tay, not “mate”) is an interesting thing. It’s tea, of course, but the etiquette around it and the cultural obsession with it here are the parts that really make it stand out. So, it’s yerba mate tea and you can add sugar and/or some other flavoring to it. Then you pour hot water all over the loose leaves and drink it out of this gourd-shaped cup out of a silver bent straw. The idea is you share it with friends, and each time you get the cup, you drink it until the water is gone. Then, the water is refilled and you give it to the next person sharing mate with you. Again, this is probably something you’ll get to do if you have friends here or if you’re traveling with friends, but I seriously doubt ol’ Frederico or whoever is going to ask you to join his little mate circle if you’re backpacking through town. Maybe I’m wrong – the Mendocinos are pretty friendly. But I was pretty psyched to get to have some today already. The taste is a little strong, but I guess you get used to it. Plus, it’s more caffeinated than coffee, so I have a feeling it will come in handy with work.

Random observation: You need to be a NINJA to cross the street here. Sure, there are stoplights. The drivers may even stop at them (I’ve seen some run a few, but mostly, they’re law-abiding citizens…ish). But there are major intersections of busy streets where there is no light. There is not even a stop sign sometimes. If you’re driving a car, you just basically pull a “California stop” and roll on through after slowing down to see if someone’s gonna t-bone you. And through all of this, you, the pedestrian, are trying to cross the street. At the normal place where a crosswalk is.  It’s kinda scary. Luckily, my NYC jaywalking skills are finally rewarded!

Bienvenida a Argentina!

My first day in Mendoza could not have been better. I forgot which wines I was tasting, but I will post them here when I get a chance to ask which ones I had, but they were 2 amazing Malbecs from Mendoza.

I was told by my amazing new coworker that the time leading up to the Vendimia in Mendoza is tons of fun – lots of free and cool events going on all the time all around the city.

Well, if last night was any indication, she was right. We went to the Mirador Terraza Municipal, which is the 8th floor rooftop terrace at the municipal building, with viewfinders and other stuff to get an amazing view of the Andes.  In the next few weeks, every Thursday night from early January through March 6 will feature a different type of music paired with a different type of wine. The event is free, and comes with a complimentary glass of the specially-chosen wine for the occasion. We were treated to the (extremely strange) sounds of “pop music” by the band Bigote (mustache), and a glass of Tempranillo. As one of my new friends described them, it was as if the lead singer had his underwear pulled up around his shoulders… lol. BUT, it was a rock band with a violinist, so that was pretty sweet. And you can pretty much guarantee that if you’re serving free wine, I’m there.

We stayed at the concert until the wine was all packed up and the band was finished, then headed to Sarmiento in search of pizza. We ended up at the aptly-named La Pizza. I had my doubts about the capacity of anyone other than Italians and Italian-Americans making the stuff, but damn, it was pretty effing good. Only one complaint – they put whole olives on the pie… with the pits still inside them. Serious impediment when you’re starving at 1030pm (normal dinner time here) and need a cushion for all the vino and cerveza you have been or are about to be drinking.  We paired our pizzas with Andes beer. I went home totally contenta with where I was and what I was doing.

For my first real day in a strange new country, today was fantastic. I didn’t get lost going to or from work (an improvement from wandering around yesterday for 15 minutes without a map). It was a beautiful 75* on the way to the office, and the walk is mostly in the shade. Then, I realized I’m not going to be very poor here. For example, lunch for me and 2 new friends, consisted of 12 delicious meat, egg, olive & onion-filled empanadas and 2 bottles of Coke Zero from Quiero Mas? for only AR$32. That’s $8. And they’re not exactly small. In fact, we had 5 leftover for dinner (eaten at the office later on). This is going to be dangerous.

I’ll write more about my general impressions of the city when I’m not a day behind and have other things to say. But, so far, I am having an amazing time.

Saludos,
Yo