The Ultimate Mendoza Travel Map

I had too much fun creating my Ultimate Dublin Travel Map, and so now I present to you, the Interwebs, my dear readers, my Ultimate Mendoza Travel Map. This applies to Mendoza, Argentina, for the record.

This is only my map of the City of Mendoza, and doesn’t cover my favorite spots in the surrounding countryside (hello, bodegas (wineries) and vineyards!) – that stuff will be coming sooner than later. There are three main wine areas surrounding Mendoza: Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu and the Uco Valley (Valle de Uco). Each are an easy day trip from the city, if you plan to make the city your base. You can hire a driver for the day and hit up to 4 wineries each day if you really hustle.

How to use this Mendoza travel map:

View the map bigger by clicking the bracket window-looking icon in the upper-right corner, next to your photo/avatar. Save the link to your phone if you’re traveling – I think it might be handy (but that’s just me!). Use the layers to toggle between stuff that you’re looking for – I’ve grouped them in Sightseeing, Restaurants and Bars, Hotels, Shopping and Entertainment and Services & Tourism info, or Continue reading

Speaking too much or not enough Spanish in Argentina

So, here’s a post with the intention of being a break from the mundane tales of my travels in South America – demonstrating what can happen when you speak either too much or too little Spanish in Argentina.

Let’s imagine for a minute that you are a gringo who doesn’t speak much Spanish, and has come to Argentina (or some other Spanish-speaking place, perhaps a mythical one called “Remolacha” – my favorite Spanish word! It means “beet”) for a finite amount of time to live. You may want to interact with the locals. Sure, you “know” Spanish. As in, you can get by in the first minute of conversation without any awkward, long pauses or a lot of “can you repeat that please?”.  There are some dangers, however, in speaking only Spanish with a cab driver you just met when you don’t really know the language, after getting a few key phrases perfectly correct. Here they are, in no particular order:

1) People will think you actually speak Spanish, and will answer you enthusiastically, and probably really quickly and in more detail than your limited vocabulary can grasp. You’ll get unnecessary news updates about what’s happening in Remolacha and launch into a conversation about their cheating wife, when all you wanted was to sit in the cab peacefully on the way to meet your friends somewhere.

2) In said responses, you will pick up every other word. You may understand what they are saying, but you probably won’t. Here, you have two choices on how to react and continue: 1) nod and smile like an idiot, changing your facial expression slightly every time you think they begin a new sentence, or 2) ask them to repeat themselves “más despacio, por favor” until they give up and stop talking to you.

3) You are absolutely shocked when they answer your “Cómo estás?” with anything else than “Bien, y tu?” You freeze up. Turn red. Stop talking. And pray that the cab ride is short and they don’t try again with asking you something that you don’t know how to answer.

4) He realizes that you’re a gringo and you get a grand tour of the city instead of being brought straight home – complete with the extra fare. Jackass.

Then there’s the opposite scenario: When you know too much Spanish after a few months and you use it often. In this case, you have impressed the cab driver with your extensive verbal skills. There are several problems that can come from this situation. In no particular order, they are:

1) The cab driver will ask you out on a date, or if you have a boyfriend. Then they will ask you out on a date after they find out you have a boyfriend.

2) You will be grilled about American politics and are asked if you know “Miguel in Houston” or “Facu in Dallas”, because you say you are from Texas. You also get to hear about they “went to Idaho once” and so they are an expert on American things. Also, do you like the Simpsons?

3) You get an extended interview about how you like Remolacha. Do you like it here? It’s very much like Texas! How long have you lived here? What are you doing here for so long? Do you have a boyfriend? Do you like asado?

Of course, there are worse things in life. You have to practice your language skills so that you get better, and you don’t lose it once you’ve got it. Practice with cab drivers and waiters/waitresses in restaurants, and anyone you know. But be prepared for the scenarios above. It’s not just me. But it’s pretty funny 🙂

Those pesky acequias.

I believe I have blogged before about the water irrigation ditches found on the side of nearly every Mendocino street (other than Arístedes and Colón, I’ve noticed – but there are ton more, I’m sure.). They are about 3-4 feet deep , or so. They carry running water around the city to water the plants that they planted here way back when, because we’re smack in the middle of a desert.

They built the acequias to injure people.

Not really. But, I know a lot of people who have fallen in one, drunk or sober. I’m now a lucky member of this not-so-exclusive club.

Mendoza

I don’t know how it happened, but I ate sh*t yesterday on my way home from my massage. Maybe it was the fact that I was so relaxed after a stressful day. Maybe it was the spiderweb I was mesmerized by, so much so that I took an ill-placed step and ended up waist-deep in my concrete ditch. Luckily for me, there was no water in this one on this day.  However, concrete ledges, when one scrapes one’s both legs on them, hurt like a b*tch.

Adding insult to injury, no Mendocino passerby offered to help me or ask if I was okay. I dusted off my now-dust-covered jeans and wiped my bloody, scraped palms together. Embarrassed, and used to falling in such a manner, I grinned. But I died a little bit inside.

I called my mother soon thereafter to recount the story, and her reaction? “That nevah woulda happened in New YAWK. People think we’re all rude, but I’ll tell ya – New Yawkas woulda stopped and helped ya.”

Maybe.

photo by:

Restaurant Review – Aramburu

L and I went to two of the best meals we’ve ever had, within 3 days in Buenos Aires during our trip.

Thanks to recommendations from friends, we checked out both Astrid & Gastón and Aramburu. (Update: Astrid & Gastón was TERRIBLE the second time we went, months later, and has since closed!)

We ate at Aramburu second but I want to write about it first, because I’m lazy and who knows if I’ll ever get around to writing about Astrid & Gastón?

First off, it’s on a little street in San Telmo with no sign on the outside, with shutters or blinds concealing most of the windows, and very low lighting. Our cab drove right past it on the way to the place. We then proceeded to back up down the one-way street and find it.

The interior is beautiful. Exposed Continue reading

Buenos Aires: Wandering La Boca

Ok, I promised I’d write a little bit about my second trip to Buenos Aires and wandering La Boca. Here it is. See? I deliver.

Part of why I was excited to go back to BA was that I never got to see the Boca stadium, or La Boca in general.

Boca Juniors play here. They took their colors from the Swedish Flag.

This time I took Kim’s advice (who commented on a prior post) and checked out Caminito in La Boca. I have to say, it was a pretty cool place. And funny. And super obnoxious. Every two feet, someone would approach us and ask us to eat in their cafe, or go to their tango show, or buy something. It got old, real fast.

Ah, Caminito. And Havanna, which is basically the Starbucks of Argentina. And possibly as obnoxious.

However, the highlight was a 20-something dreadlocked rasta who came right up and said, “Hey guys, want to get really f*cking drunk in my awesome restaurant?”  I couldn’t have asked it better myself.

We declined, however. We were on the search for some good knockoff Argentina jerseys and scarves. And trying to take photos of the streets, because, well, they are pretty amazing.

Creepy mannequins are watching you.

 

Other highlights were the fat Argentine man who takes photo ops as Maradona, the famous (?) Maradona graffiti, and the tango dancers in the streets. And the restaurant hustler who kept trying to guess where I was from. When I told him “Texas, USA”, after he guessed Australia, Canada, Russia (?), and then things like Iowa (!) …he replied, “But you are so white!”

Thanks, dude.

 

Restaurant Review – Molokai (Mendoza, Argentina)

I went to Molokai with a friend about a month ago, and I wanted to rave a little bit about it because it was such a nice surprise here in Mendoza. And I have a blog, so rave I will. I’ve been eating at some great places lately, so there are going to be a few posts like this in quick succession. Be prepared.

The food at Molokai is really, really good – and not traditional Argentine either. It’s molecular gastronomy without getting a little too weird about it, if that makes sense. Everything has a foam on top of it, but it’s not overdone or too bold.

The place itself is cool; trendy but not uncomfortable, and a unique setting compared to the same old yellow-tablecloth cafeteria-lighting restaurants they have here in spades.

I think it’s a pretty great deal for the money because the portions are huge and for dinner for 2, it was about $350 pesos including 2 appetizers, 2 entrees and a bottle of wine.

We tried the salmon foccaccia and the pear and roquefort salads for appetizers. They were both huge and really tasty. My friend and I both commented that we’d be happy with just those dishes as our whole meal, if not at least for a lunch.
For entrees, I got the Hungarian goulash, which was pretty awesome considering the spaetzle was perfect and the beef was Argentine beef. My friend had the bife de chorizo with croquettes.

Basically, the food was awesome and the place is really cool, so I’m excited to go back again soon. It’s located at Belgrano 1169, between Espejo and Sarmiento (I think???) in the city center.

Open Monday to Saturday from 8pm to 1:30am.

Update: I think Molokai is now closed. Please leave a comment if I am wrong!